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It All Went Down in a Parking Lot During Hillbilly Days…

By Sister Kathy Curtis

As these things usually do, it started with the question: “where can I get…?” and ended up with money and goods changing hands.  Oh, and a really awesome meal for a 100 people.

This is a true story and none of the names have been changed because these guys want you to know what they are doing.

First up in our cast of characters is Chef William Gentry. He is a personal chef by trade and the man responsible for feeding Chris Stapleton and his crew on their recent tour. Country Music Award winner Chris Stapleton, is a local boy. He grew up in the small town of Staffordsville, Kentucky, which is just outside of Paintsville, located between the city and the Paintsville Lake. The tour had him playing in Roanoke, Virginia on Friday night, then packing up and driving all night to get to Pikeville for a Saturday show at the Hillbilly Days Festival.

Chris for all his greatness is not the star of this story though. Back to Chef William.

 

 

 

 

“Chef William Gentry specializes in creating delicious local food prepared with environmentally responsible practices. After fifteen years of working in professional kitchens, Chef William Gentry has moved his focus to the home kitchen. As the sous-chef at Tayst Restaurant (Nashville’s first certified green restaurant) and chef of Local Kitchen Catering at the side of Executive Chef Jeremy Barlow, Gentry developed great relationships with local farmers that he wants to bring to your table”. (Source: http://chefwilliamgentry.com/)

Apparently, great relationships with local farmers is something Chef William continues to do while on the road. When he asked about local farmers in the Pikeville area, he was told to contact Suzanne Stumbo, UK Extension Agent for Pike County. So, I asked her to tell what happened next:

“I was emailed by Chef William Gentry who wanted to procure local produce for a dinner. Over a period of about 2 weeks we communicated back and forth to determine what could be provided locally. I gave him the contact information for Four Petal Farm, Appalachian Meats, and Indian Creek Settlement. I couldn’t think of anyone else local to provide fresh products.  Everybody was just starting for 2017.  Even the high tunnels were just being installed” said Suzanne.

Next, in our story is John Rehmeyer of Four Petal Farm:

“Chef Gentry called me and asked what we had for sale, then he went down the list of what he wanted and how much. He knew what he was looking for” John [Rehmeyer] told me.

Chris Stapleton and his entourage left Roanoke about midnight which put Chef Gentry in the parking lot of the Pikeville Food City at 7:00am.

“He called to tell me when he would be there, so me and the girls loaded up the truck. We got to Food City and went inside to find him. He was easy to spot. He was the only guy in the place with dreadlocks. Together, we went out to the truck. As we walked out up pulled Jon [Reinford] from Appalachian Meats in his Explorer. I have to admit; Chef Gentry was a little surprised by the quality of what we had. After all it was Hillbilly Days, with its deep-fried Reese’s Cups and all.”

Quality is something John knows about. He and his wife Cathy have been taught by a local celebrity, Matt Corbin owner of two Pikeville favorites: The Blue Raven and Sliced. Corbin is known to be a real champion of buying local ingredients for his restaurants. Sliced even has the Four Petal Farm Pizza is a menu item featuring ingredients from the Rehmeyer’s. John [Rehmeyer] says, “Matt has told us what chefs are looking for when it comes to fresh food”.

And what did Chef William get from our local producers? Quality.

“We gave him beautiful purple sprouting broccoli, snow white casper kale and flowerets, crispy lacinto kale, and we had some of Emily Whitakers’ Windy Hills coffee in our store, so we tossed that in there too” said John [Rehmeyer].

“He got Ribeye and New-York Strip steaks and chicken from us” said Jon [Reinford], from Appalachian Meats.

“So, he handed me my money and I handed him the produce and the girls and I headed home. And Appalachian Meats Jon, was right behind me. Deal done and the sun hadn’t gotten over the ridge top yet” said John [Rehmeyer].

***

I loved hearing this story and wanted to share it with you for two reasons:

First of all, I love hearing how people are working together to develop our local food system. When Suzanne got the call from Chef William, she knew what names to give him because she is “committed to working with the small farmers in our area”. When John Rehmeyer talked to Chef William about what he had for sale, he knew what chefs were looking for because of conversations he and Cathy have had with Matt Corbin of the Blue Raven. It takes a lot of people to create a “system”.

Second, and most important, if a chef from New York City can go out of his way to find fresh local food in Pikeville Kentucky, why don’t we? We have an abundance of local produce and meats here in the mountains of Central Appalachia, much of it being produced by small family farms. To me it seems like buying food straight from the farmer is a delicious way to get healthy food, support my neighbor and build the local economy.

Don’t know a farmer personally? Find a farmers market. Just about every county in the region has one. Here is a handy website to find one that is Kentucky Proud. Additionally, you can call your local extension agent or ask your neighbor or…well you get the idea.

Until next time, KC.


Breaking Beans: Appalachian Food Story Project is an initiative of Community Farm Alliance to tell the story of how local food and farming in Eastern Kentucky can contribute to a bright future in the mountains. Read the stories at cfaky.org/blog

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Breaking Beans Radio #17: Friends, Markets, and Grow Appalachia

Aired: June 7, 2017

Sister Kathy is joined by Emily Whittaker from Perry County where among other things she manages the farmers’ market and roasts her own brand of coffee, Windy Hills. Other guests include David Cooke, Executive Director of Grow Appalachia and Joyce Pinson, from the Pikeville Farmers Market. 

 

 

 

Find other episodes and Breaking Beans stories here:

http://cfaky.org/blog

Download this and other past episodes here:

https://archive.org/details/@breakingbeans

The Breaking Beans Variety Radio Show airs on 88.7 WMMT (online too!) the first Wednesday of every month at 6pm featuring stories, interviews, recipes, and news from the food and farming worlds in the Appalachian region!

Hosted by Breaking Beans Fellow Sister Kathy Curtis.

 

breakingbeansWEBsm

 

Breaking Beans: The Appalachian Food Story Project is an initiative of Community Farm Alliance to tell the story of how local food and farming in Eastern Kentucky can contribute to a bright future in the mountains. Eastern Kentucky is at the point where it can foster a food system that is equitable and accessible to all, provides fresh nutritious food, and serves as an economic generator that builds community wealth. With a rich history of food and farming, stories of how Eastern Kentucky is already growing in that direction – and the challenges along the way – are important for informing people and policy alike.

 

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Breaking Beans Radio #14: Ag Conferences

Aired: March 1, 2017

Host Sister Kathy Curtis attends the Eastern Kentucky Farmer Conference and Growing Appalachia Conference to ask attendees, presenters, and organizers what ag in Eastern Kentucky looks like in their eyes.

Interviewees include: Shane Lucas, Sky Hale, Myrisa Christy, Suzanne Stumbo, Cody Montgomery, and Beverly May.

 

Find other episodes and Breaking Beans stories here:

http://cfaky.org/blog

Download this and other past episodes here:

https://archive.org/details/@breakingbeans

The Breaking Beans Variety Radio Show airs on 88.7 WMMT (online too!) the first Wednesday of every month at 6pm featuring stories, interviews, recipes, and news from the food and farming worlds in the Appalachian region!

Hosted by Breaking Beans Fellow Sister Kathy Curtis.

 

breakingbeansWEBsm

 

Breaking Beans: The Appalachian Food Story Project is an initiative of Community Farm Alliance to tell the story of how local food and farming in Eastern Kentucky can contribute to a bright future in the mountains. Eastern Kentucky is at the point where it can foster a food system that is equitable and accessible to all, provides fresh nutritious food, and serves as an economic generator that builds community wealth. With a rich history of food and farming, stories of how Eastern Kentucky is already growing in that direction – and the challenges along the way – are important for informing people and policy alike.

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Farming, Cooking and Teaching in Pike County

by Sister Kathy Curtis

Kelly-chicken-selfie
Kelly Scott has always wanted to be a farmer. She grew up as a city girl in Pikeville where her parents were business owners, but her grandparents farmed. “They were miners but they always had a little plot of land for a garden. My grandmother cooked and grew and saved everything and I wanted to do that.”

Scott got her chance when the family moved back to Kentucky to her husband’s home place with two hundred or so acres on Joe’s Creek in Pike County. Most of their land is mountainous but they have “about four acres of flat land, which is a lot in our area”. Scott’s husband Dean, who grew up working in the garden, isn’t always as excited about all the work that goes into farming, saying he already did that. “But I haven’t” remarks Scott.

When asked how she finds the time to work a garden, raise chickens, grow food for her family, and teach full time, she admits that she has to let some things go. “You learn from your mistakes. You plan a lot and do what you can.”

In 2014 they grew enough to feed her family, put up and give away but it wasn’t enough. “By February we were out of pickles and beans. We just didn’t grow enough”. This year the Scott’s are slowly adding to their garden with the addition of cold frames and a greenhouse so that in the fall they can extend their growing season into the cooler months and grow more food.

Scott teaches biology and environmental science at Pikeville High School, passing on her passion for the environment and growing and cooking real food. She wants her student to learn about the world they are inheriting. “I want them toKellys-chicks know why it’s important to buy local and grow their own food. And to be able to pronounce everything they eat.”

Her passion for teaching her students about food means that every year she shows the documentary Food Inc. to her classes. They also incubate chicken eggs each year. In fact, that is how she ended up raising chickens herself.

“One year we had a little too much water in the incubator. I came into class one morning and all but one had drowned.” Her students named the survivor “Lucky” and the entire student body came to her lab to get a peek. Scott brought Lucky home, bought some more pullets to keep it company and has been incubating eggs ever since. This year the class had better luck, hatching 15 of the eggs.

Scott is also the faculty advisor for Teens Who Care, an offshoot of the school’s Personal Responsibility in a Desirable Environment (PRIDE) Club. In 2014, Pikeville High School had a team that went all the way to finals in the state Junior Chef competition. After that, so many kids expressed an interest in learning how to cook that twice a month students gather in her classroom before school to get cooking tips. Several of those students were in the 2015 Pikeville High School Cooking Team who recently won the regional competition with their taco bowl.

PHS-Cooking-Team
“We’ve created the taco bowl recipe with brown rice and black beans and homemade seasonings for the ground beef. We even make homemade salsa.” The students hope to get their recipe approved for use in the school kitchen. They have been asked to cater events locally.

From incubating chickens and creating recipes in the classroom to making home-made seasoning mixes and “waxed paper”, environmental education is key to Scott. “Knowing what is in the food we eat is important”, says Scott. “Do we really want to be a science experiment?”

That’s food for thought, especially coming from a science teacher.

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Kentucky’s Other Delicious Bourbon

by Sister Kathy Curtis

This piece was also published in the Floyd County Times.

16204332142_7162bd2533_mJoyce Pinson of Friends Drift Inn Farm in Pike County invited me to Fort Cluck, the poultry component of the farm business, to meet her Kentucky Bourbon Red turkeys. Joyce and her husband Charlie also raise heritage breed chickens and ducks at Fort Cluck. The chickens and ducks are being raised for eggs and meat; however, the Kentucky Bourbon Reds are being raised to bring attention to the endangered breed.

Kentucky Bourbon Reds were originally bred in Bourbon County Kentucky and are on the American Livestock Breeds Conservancy’s Watch List. The Kentucky Bourbon Red is also included in Slow Food USA’s Ark of Taste, a catalog of heritage American foods in danger of extinction.

The Kentucky Bourbon Red began falling out of favor when breeders introduced large breasted turkeys to meet the consumer’s desire for more white meat. Today’s turkeys can get so large that they fall over and need help getting up when it rains so they don’t drown.

Pinson’s connection with turkeys goes back several generations. In Civil war times, her family had an inn in northern Kentucky right along Dixie Highway near Ridgewood, Kentucky. “In those days, you used to sell your turkeys in Lexington not Cincinnati which was closer”, Pinson said.

“People would herd hundreds of turkeys all the way to Lexington. On the way, they would stop at my family’s inn where they had a corral for the turkeys.”

I was really amazed at how beautiful and sociable the turkeys were when we walked around in the pen. The toms were showing off their brownish-red and white plumage and blue heads. Strutting around and gobbling, they put on quite a show. But one of the ironies of raising a heritage breed is that you raise them to be eaten.

According to Pinson, the Kentucky Bourbon Red has a rich flavor. They taste like what you feed them. “My babies have had black berries, cushaws, pumpkins, weeds and corn to eat and a lot of lovin’.”

Pinson paid $11 each for her turkey poults compared to around $1 for chickens. From April until Thanksgiving they don’t do anything but eat. “I paid $70 for my first Kentucky Bourbon Red two years ago, as a Thanksgiving entree. But when I think of all the time I have spent with my turkeys, feeding them and giving them a place to live, $70 doesn’t seem so high.”

Pinson isn’t raising her Bourbon Reds for the money but to better understand and bring attention to the breed. Seeing her with her flocks you can tell it is a labor of love.

“People say farming is hard work and no joy. I say if you’re not having joy in what you are doing, why are you doing it?”